At Curly & Wild, to celebrate Black History Month we wanted to give an honourable mention to 6 black hair pioneers who made waves in the black hair industry. Their stories and the way they achieve success amongst racism, discrimination and hardship is incredible. They overcame obstacles, broke down barriers and created products that we still use today. 

Annie Malone

Annie Turnbo Malone was born in Metropolis, Illinois, 1869. She understood the importance that black women placed on their hair and how its health had a positive effect on their self-esteem and lives. This inspired her to develop her own product line which allowed her to grow her company to enormous success. One product she created was the Wonderful Hair Grower which was extremely popular. She was also responsible for the earliest commercial hair straighteners.

Malone founded the Poro College Company, a cosmetics school, which became a training centre for caring and styling black hair. She recruited people who gained commission from their recruits' sales, like a pyramid scheme. Her agents of women and men would sell her products for nourishing the hair and scalp which was called the Poro system. She became one of the wealthiest African American women and with her wealth she donated money to philanthropic causes. Unfortunately, due to a hard divorce settlement and the great depression the company was broken up and never returned to its former glory.

Madame C.J. Walker

Madam C.J. Walker also known as Sarah Breedlove was born in Delta, Louisiana in 1867 on the same plantation where her parents were slaves. She was married at the age of 14 and had a daughter called A’Lelia. Walker was a formidable woman and a self-made black millionaire who amassed her fortune from her range of hair care products. Her products included tonics, hair pomades and hair straighteners which she claimed promoted healthy hair growth and coined her process the Walker system. She employed women called “beauty culturalists” to promote her products far and wide. 

Walker’s success does not come without some controversy as she was a former employee of Annie Malone as a sales agent. She created a similar product to Annie’s “Wonderful Hair Grower” with different ingredients and quickly rose to success due to her superior marketing skills. 

To find out more about these amazing female entrepreneurs check out the Netflix production Self Made.

Dyke and Dryden

Perhaps less known but no more less influential was Dyke and Dryden the pioneers of the British black hair industry. They were the founders of one of Britain’s biggest black-owned companies which was founded by three men, Lincoln "Len" Dyke, Dudley Dryden and Tony Wade. During the 70s and 80s, they sold a range of products including hair sheens, weaves, cosmetics, relaxers and curl activators.  

They established the first black hair shop in Tottenham and opened another in Birmingham as well as a travel agency providing flights to the Caribbean and Africa. They also commercialised the iconic hand holding afro combs and sold their products to the US, Africa and Europe with the help of their agents. In addition, they established the annual afro hair and beauty expo which launched in 1983.

Due to the influx of non-black competitors entering the black hair industry to make quick cash, the company struggled to keep up. In the 90s, Drake and Dryden was eventually sold to an American competitor. Unfortunately, at the time no one in the black community had the money to acquire a multi-million pound business.

Watch the video to find out more about their story.

Christina Jenkins

Finally, we could not end this feature without mentioning Christine Jenkins, the inventor of sew-in weaves. 

Christina was born in Zillplatt, Louisiana, 1920. She graduated with a bachelor's degree in science and became a hairdresser. While working for a wig manufacturer she began researching methods for ways to secure wigs to the hair and scalp. At the time, black women were using hair grips and pins to secure wigs to their hair. Jenkins invented a device called the weaving frame which allowed women to stitch weaves to their natural hair. This was revolutionary as it gave black women more freedom and flexibility.  

Jenkins patented this technique and travelled around the world teaching other cosmetologists how to use her method. The principle of this technique is still used today by hairstylists around the world. 

These are just four people who helped shape black hair history over two centuries, and their stories are fascinating. There are many black hair pioneers who we could write about and there’s no doubt more are to come. To keep the legacy alive, we should continue to support black entrepreneurs in the black hair industry. This way we will continue to preserve an important part of our history and encourage economic empowerment through our beautiful hair.

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BROWSE HAIR EXTENSIONS

Whether you have coily, kinky or curly locks the natural hair movement is a positive community when it comes to embracing natural hair. The movement has taken the UK and the rest of the world by storm as more and more individuals say goodbye to damaging hair habits and hello to their amazing natural hair. But, we understand that gaining your confidence is going to take some time.

Here are 5 top tips to help you build confidence so you can wear your natural hair with pride.

1. Learn how to look after your natural hair

If you haven’t been taking good care of your natural texture it’s going to take a little while to get back on track, but the end results are definitely worth it. Remember that your hair journey is very personal so what works for somebody else might not work for you and that’s okay as a little trial and error will help you get to know your curls. Focus on improving your hair’s health. Moisture, good quality products and cutting out heat are all essential hair care tips and by learning how to look after your hair it will start to look healthy which will make you feel more confident.

Check out our latest blog on natural hair journeys for more details.

2. Schedule time to wear your natural hair out

It’s completely normal to feel nervous about wearing your hair out especially at work or in front of friends that have never seen your natural texture. Why not ease yourself in? Instead of going cold turkey, use weekends as your time to gain confidence rocking your fro or extend the time between hairdresser visits. Practice new styles that make you feel confident - these can also protect your hair too. The natural hair community is all over YouTube and Instagram so finding tutorials is easier than ever. Little by little, as you learn more about your hair and get used to caring for your texture, you’ll feel more comfortable wearing your hair out.

3. Experiment with natural hair extensions

When you are starting out on your natural hair journey you can feel self-conscious about how thin or short your hair is. Remember, you have to take small steps in the right direction. Natural hair extensions can be a great way to provide the length and thickness you desire while you wait for your natural hair to grow out, that way you aren’t tempted to use straighteners! It can seem a little strange at first when you’re so used to seeing your hair straight, but natural hair extensions can be a great transition and soon enough it will feel completely normal.

Are you interested in natural hair extensions? Read our blog on why clip-in extensions are the best protective style to transition to natural hair.

4. Follow people on social media who inspire you

Starting your natural hair journey goes beyond just improving the condition of your hair, it’s also about changing your thoughts and feelings towards your afro. Although it is certainly getting better, the representation of women wearing their natural hair in the media is still few and far between but social media is a great way of building a community that makes you feel good. Follow people that share positive images every day. Seeing them embracing and loving their

natural hair texture will inspire you to wear your hair in its more natural state and feel positive about doing so.

5. Be kind and patient with yourself

Self-love is everything so don’t beat yourself up if you’re anxious about wearing your hair natural. Many of us have felt the pressure to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards and after a long time of wearing weaves or straightening your hair, these feelings won’t disappear overnight. Be kind and take baby steps so you aren’t overwhelmed and your natural hair journey is enjoyable. Slowly but surely you will gain the confidence to wear your natural hair out a bit more and maybe you will get to the point where your natural hair is out all the time!

So, what are you waiting for? Give these five tips a go and rock your fro with confidence! Don’t forget to keep up to date with our blog page for essential hair care tips and advice!

Natural hair appreciation has exploded in popularity in the last decade or two. For many years the only option for black women was to straighten their hair with harsh chemicals to be deemed societally acceptable or work in a corporate environment. Nowadays, an increasing number of black women are favouring their natural hair with a report from Mintel revealing that 40% of women have opted for chemical-free and heat-free styling. With a further 33% preferring heat-styling with no chemicals. 

Before this though, there was a period where natural hair garnered a lot of bad press, due to stigma, racism and pure misinformation. So, in honour of World Afro day this month, we present to you, 7 myths we are told about our natural hair!

1. Natural Hair Doesn’t Grow Past a Certain Length

 This first myth is a pervasive one that many black women still believe to this day. Many believe that natural hair doesn’t grow past a certain length. When the truth is that kinky, coily hair on average grows at the same rate as straighter hair types but because of its coily nature it takes longer to see our length. The biggest difficulty that many black women face is retaining their length, not growing it.

Many black women experience what is often referred to as the hair length plateau. This is when you can’t seem to grow your hair past a certain length, be it nape length, shoulder-length or upper back length. If you’re experiencing this, you’ll probably find that your hair is growing just fine, but is simply breaking off at the same rate it’s growing. If you’re at a growth plateau it’s likely due to a poor hair care regime (or lack thereof).

We’ve got you covered, though! For tips on how to formulate your perfect hair care routine, click here!

2. It’s Hard to Maintain

This is another commonly held misconception that is thrown about, often by people who don’t even have natural hair! Certainly, if you are used to having relaxed hair, weaves, or wigs, figuring out how to manage your natural hair will be a learning curve. This isn’t necessarily synonymous with it being harder to manage, however. Many naturals find that once they’ve got a hair care regime down that works for them, their hair is much easier and cheaper to manage!

3. Natural Hair Isn’t Pretty or Attractive

For a long time, the media has perpetuated the idea that women with straight hair are more ideal. And if we’re going back even further, during the days of slavery black people were differentiated amongst if they had lighter skin or “good hair”. Essentially, the closer black people met the European standard of beauty, the more humanely they were treated in society. This created discord amongst the black community that still remains to this day.

Recently, however, natural hair appreciation is on the rise, and every day we see more and more women in real life and the media sporting their beautiful natural hair with pride!

4. Natural Hair Doesn’t Look Professional

With the increasing popularity of the natural hair movement in the past two decades, beauty standards are changing. Previously, it wasn’t uncommon for black people to experience prejudice when wearing their natural hair, especially professionally. The texture of black people’s natural hair was a distinct target of discrimination during Jim Crow and slavery eras, of which we can still see the ramifications. Natural hairstyles such as afros were viewed as unruly and unprofessional, leaving black people who wanted to progress professionally to hide their hair away or alter it hair with chemicals or flat irons.

But beauty standards are changing – and so is the law. Virginia is soon to become the fourth state to enact the CROWN bill. The CROWN (Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair) Act, is a bill that protects people who feel they are being targeted by racist grooming obligations. And in the UK petitions have to put toward to end natural hair discrimination in the work place.

5. The “Good Hair” Myth

Although completely untrue, it’s understandable why over the years people have this misperception. You don’t have to look far to find countless blogs, videos or articles describing natural afro and curly hair as “unruly, hard to tame or unmanageable”. The texture discrimination that exists around curly, kinky hair types is very real. With straighter hair types, that are more similar to European standards, being idealised.

Here at Curly & Wild, we know this to be completely untrue, of course.

We know natural hair is beautiful, versatile, has the ability to be moulded into almost any shape. Every texture of hair has pros and cons and whilst it may be true that natural hair requires slightly more specialist care. This doesn’t mean it’s not “good” hair.

6. Natural Hair Is Too Dry

Dryness isn’t exclusive to kinky, coily hair and every hair type can experience dryness if not cared for correctly. It is true that due to the tight curl pattern of type 3,4 hair that the natural oils from the scalp take longer to distribute down the strand of hair. This is easily rectified with a hair routine that hydrates and moisturises the hair, however.

Check out our blog on the L.O.C (leave-in/liquid, oil, cream) method for tips on how to revive dry natural hair!

7. Natural Hair Is Tough and Strong

Due to its voluminous nature and tightly wound coils, many people presume natural hair to be tougher and stronger than straighter hair types. This couldn’t be further from the truth, as anyone with natural hair will know type 3,4 hair requires a much gentler approach than other hairs types. Kinky, coily hair can be easily susceptible to breakage if not handled with love and care.

We’ve grown up with a lot of misinformation about natural kinky, coily hair over the years but with the CROWN Act and natural hair awareness increasing every day, these myths and misconceptions are being left in the past, where they belong.

If you don’t already, consider rocking your ‘fro or natural hair on September 15th for World Afro Day and always remember to love your natural kinks and curls and celebrate your hair with pride!